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COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT 




ST. ANNF DE BEAl IPRR 



AMONG THE BLUE 
LAURENTIANS 



Queenly Montreal, Quaint Quebec 
Peerless Ste, Anne de Beaupre 



BY 

ELEANOR GERTRUDE FARRELL 




P. J. KENEDY & SONS 

44 BARCLAY STREET 
NEW YORK 



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Copyright, 1912, 
By Eleanoe Gertrude Farrell. 



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TO THE Memory of 
Father and IMother 



CONTENTS. 

PAGE 

Queenly Montreal 11 

Quaint Quebec v:^ 25 

Peerless Ste. Anne de Beaupre 51 



PREFACE. 

THe author has endeavored to make this little 
book interesting as well as didactic in its nature, 
and wishes to mingle the mind of the reader with 
that which is quaint, beautiful and picturesque 
in nature, to sweeten and harmonize his thoughts 
by bringing him in contact with a people whose 
delightfully quaint ways and honesty of char- 
acter appeal so strongly to her ; hoping to inspire 
and foster within him a love for nature and 
nature's works; to inculcate lessons of thrift 
and integrity and cause him to feel that "It's 
honest labor and steadfast thrift that alone are 
blessed by God." An excellent opportunity to 
develop the sphere of observation was given the 
author while on a recent visit to Lower Canada, 
where the moral excellence of the people and the 
beauties of the country prompted the writing of 
"Among the Blue Laurentians." E. G. F. 



MONTREAL 



MONTREAL. 

It was a most magnificent prospect which 
stretched itself before the enraptured gaze of 
Jacques Cartier, the discoverer of Canada, when 
on ascending the beautiful and majestic St. 
Lawrence, he beheld the Indian village, Hoche- 
laga, in all its primitive beauty. The well-cul- 
tivated ground of the Indian, with its luxuriant 
growth of maize rippling in the breeze, and from 
behind, the lovely framework of gayly tinted 
mountains; for it was a day in early autumn 
when nature is most lavish in charms of gor- 
geous coloring and the forests glitter with the 
varied tints of autumnal glory. This lovely 
mountain Cartier determined to climb. So im- 
pressed was he with the scene, he named it Mont 
Real (Regal Mountain), now Montreal. 

The beginning of the seventeenth century 
saw Champlain ascending this noble river for 
the purpose of exploration. At Hochelaga 
things had changed. The Indian village had dis- 
appeared. Not a vestige of the Indian popula- 
tion, which Cartier had seen seventy odd years 
before, remained. In 1608 Champlain founded 
the most quaint and curious of cities, ancient and 
historic Quebec, thus firmly establishing French 
dominion on the banks of the St. Lawrence. 

We cannot but admire the bravery and self- 

11 



AMONG THE BLUE LAURENTIANS 

denial of the pioneers of New France, when we 
consider such men as Cartier, the discoverer of 
Canada; Champlain, the founder of Quebec; the 
noble Montcalm, the victorious Wolfe, Laval, 
Frontenac in his brave defiance of Phipps, the 
English admiral, who claimed the surrender of 
Quebec in 1690. They have left indelible marks 
upon the history of the world by their deeds of 
heroism and sacrifice. The expansion of the 
Empire of France in Canada, the heroism of 
her faithful sons in baffling the hostile incursion 
of her enemies, and lastly the memorable siege 
of Quebec in 1759, which resulted in the final 
overthrow of the French Dominion in Canada, 
thereby determining the destiny of Canada, are 
historical facts known to all lovers of history. 

Montreal, the "Queen of Canadian cities," 
is the largest and wealthiest city in the 
Dominion and the great commercial metrop- 
olis of Canada. It has an area of almost 
ten thousand acres and a population of five 
hundred thousand. The streets, which cross 
at right angles, have a combined length of 
two hundred and thirty-one miles. It lies 
at the base of Mount Royal, from which it 
derives its name. Situated on one of a group 
of islands at the confluence of the Ottawa and 
St. Lawrence rivers — a magnificent setting with 
its varied forms of pastoral beauty of mountain, 
stream and town, surmounted and garlanded by 
the beautiful tree-clad summit of Mount Royal 
— is INIontreal, the gem of the St. Lawrence. 
On account of its situation at the head of ocean 

12 



MONTREAL 



navigation, Montreal commands Canada com- 
mercially, holding the key which unfolds the 
treasures of this naturally fertile and so gen- 
erously endowed country. The exports of all 
the valuable resources, for which Canada is 
specially characterized, must pass through its 
port. Mount Royalis about seven hundred and 
fifty feet above the river or nine hundred feet 
above the sea. A ride over the mountain and its 
summit is reached; or an inchne railway, per- 
fectly safe, leads to the top. Since its construc- 
tion in 1884 more than seven million people 
have used this means of ascent, without an acci- 
dent having occurred. The ride is a delightful, 
winding drive around and around the mountain, 
through a long stretch of picturesque wood- 
land, with its varied beauties of foliage, ferns 
and flowers, with here and there frequent 
glimpses of tiny, silvery rivulets, trickling and 
tumbling in miniature cascades down the moun- 
tainside. Along the mountain slopes, fine 
palatial residences surrounded by beautiful old 
trees, monarchs of the forest, interspersed with 
quaint and charming little cottages nestling in 
the mountain, appear to the delighted gaze and 
add to the delightfully picturesque drive. Once 
the summit is gained, an indescribably beautiful 
panorama of the city and surrounding country 
presents itself to view. The eye, feasting upon 
the beauties, seems never to tire in viewing this 
beautiful queen city from the commanding 
height of Mount Royal. There at our feet, it 
rests peacefully almost a thousand feet below; 

13 



AMONG THE BLUE LAURENTIANS 

with no sound of the busthng activity of the city, 
save the shrill whistle of the locomotive and the 
sounding blast of the passing steamboat on the 
majestic St. Lawrence. There lies commercially 
important and progressive Montreal, with its 
handsome residences, beautiful parks, hospitals 
and university buildings, massive civic structures 
and magnificent cathedrals of wondrously beau- 
tiful architecture. lYes, truly, a most beautiful 
queen with her queenly crown — Mount Royal. 
The St. Lawrence, adorned by the St. Helen 
and Nun Islands and spanned by the Victoria 
Bridge, flows on in its grandeur to the sea. The 
[Victoria Jubilee Bridge is one of the most re- 
markable engineering feats in the world. It 
was constructed by the Grand Trunk Railway 
and opened for traffic in 1860, by His late 
Majesty King Edward VII., then Prince of 
Wales. It is a steel structure, open girder, 
double track with carriage-way and foot-walk on 
both sides of the main trusses. The massive 
stone pillars of the bridge have their upper sides 
shaped to resemble plowshares extending out 
into the water. These cut the ice which comes 
dashing up against the bridge during the thaw 
in early spring; for the St. Lawrence is frozen 
over during the greater part of the winter. An- 
other bridge, the Canadian Pacific Railway, a 
magnificent iron structure and a great triumph 
of skill, crosses the river at the head of Lachine 
Rapids, about seven miles west of the city; a 
good view of which is obtained from Mount 
Royal. Two other iron bridges, one at Corn- 

14 



MONTREAL 



wall, the other at Valley Field, span the St. 
Lawrence. 

The Lachine Rapids were first run by the 
steamer "Ontario," in 1840. "Running the 
Rapids" is one of the most thrilling experiences. 
Soon after passing the Canadian Pacific Rail- 
way Bridge, the announcement is made, "The 
steamer is about to run the Rapids." The pas- 
sengers, curious and anxious, rush to witness the 
most exciting experience of navigating the most 
difficult and most celebrated of rapids. With 
bated breath they wait, but they are not long in 
suspense. The swift water and powerful engine 
soon have them over the rapids, past the narrow 
shelving, foam-covered rocks, and shortly the 
steamer is calmly passing under the gigantic 
Victoria Bridge, about to enter the queenly city 
of Montreal. The Lachine Rapids were first 
sighted by C artier, and he, thinking the St. 
Lawrence to be a strait leading to China, called 
the rapids Lachine ( Chinese ) . An old land- 
mark, the ruins of the La Salle House, once 
the abode of La Salle, is at Lachine. It is over 
two hundred and fifty years old. Near this 
house on the 4th of August, 1689, occurred one 
of the bloodiest Indian massacres in Canadian 
history. The Iroquois stealthily crept down the 
river's edge. Aided by the darkness of night, 
they fell upon the defenceless white people, slay- 
ing three hundred and fifty of their number. 
Some of them were tomahawked on the spot, 
while others were carried away captives to en- 
dure the horrible methods of torture which this 

15 



AMONG THE BLUE LAURENTIANS 

cruel tribe were so capable of inflicting. A little 
gathering of terror-stricken colonists stood gaz- 
ing across the shores of Lachine, at the blazing 
fires which tortured their relatives and friends 
to death. The harbor is one of the finest in the 
world. Its extensive wharves are unequalled 
by any on the continent. The seven miles of 
wharfage is being improved constantly. Mil- 
lions of dollars have already been spent on im- 
provements. The granite revetment wall along 
the river front to prevent the inundation of the 
city is a magnificent piece of work. Ocean 
steamers carrying immense cargoes of grain to 
be exported to Europe are now seen at the 
wharves of the city. Previous to 1851 ocean 
steamers coming to Canada found it impossible 
to go beyond Quebec, owing to the waters of the 
St. Lawrence being too shallow to admit the pas- 
sage of large ships. The St. Lawrence was 
dredged in 1851, making a channel of twenty- 
seven feet in depth from the Atlantic Ocean to 
Montreal, which now renders it possible for the 
navigation of ocean steamers. 

Place Viger is a beautiful hotel, and like the 
Chateau Frontenac in Quebec-the-Quaint, is 
operated by the Canadian Pacific Railway and 
affords excellent accommodation. This exten- 
sive railway has its headquarters at Montreal. 
The Grand Trunk, which has the longest con- 
tinuous double-track line in the world, also has 
its headquarters here. Its general office build- 
ing is one of the best equipped and most beau- 
tiful in the whole Dominion. The Bank of Mon- 

16 



MONTREAL 



treal, acknowledged to be the strongest banking 
institution in America, has a capital of eighteen 
million dollars. Beautiful parks and squares, 
the estimated value of which is eight million dol- 
lars, form pretty clusters of pastoral magnifi- 
cence, adding a special charm to the picturesque 
beauty of this queenly city. The one on St. 
Helen Island contains one hundred and twenty- 
eight acres. This island was bought by Cham- 
plain as a dowry for his wife and was named in 
her honor. These parks and squares contain 
many handsome monuments. Principally, are 
The Maison Neuve, in Place d'Armes Square, 
erected in honor of the founder of Montreal; 
Nelson's Column, The MacDonald, Jacques 
Cartier and Queen Victoria monuments. Nu- 
merous churches and convents, remarkable for 
their architectural beauty and antiquity, testify 
to the religious excellence of the people. The 
Basilica, St. James Cathedral, has a seating 
capacity of four thousand five hundred. The 
foundation was laid in 1870. When complete, 
it will surpass all other church edifices in Amer- 
ica; as it is estimated that two million five hun- 
dred thousand dollars will have been expended 
upon its construction. The dome is an exact 
counterpart of St. Peter's at Rome. It is an 
immense structure three hundred and thirty 
feet in length, width two hundred and twenty 
feet and two hundred and fifty feet in height. 
The whole edifice is fashioned after Rome's 
famous cathedral — an exact model with the ex- 
ception of the roof, which had to be an inclined 

IT 



AMONG THE BLUE LAURENTIANS 

one, owing to the heavy snowfalls which prevail 
during the Canadian winter. It has already cost 
one million five hundred thousand dollars. 

The Church of Notre Dame, erected in 1849, 
has a seating capacity of fifteen thousand. Its 
twin towers are two hundred and twenty-seven 
feet high. In one of the towers is the largest 
bell in America, ''Le Gros Bourdon'' weighing 
twenty-nine thousand four hundred pounds. 
Ten other bells are in the opposite tower. The 
combined strength of eighteen men is required 
to ring the great bell. An elevator takes visitors 
to the tower to get a view of the city. On enter- 
ing the sacred edifice, one is impressed with the 
sanctity of the place. The calm stillness, the 
solemnity and the elaborate magnificence are im- 
pressive and soul inspiring. The organ, said to 
be the finest in America, cost more than fifty 
thousand dollars. The architect of this magnifi- 
cent edifice was an Irishman, named O'Donnell. 
His body reposes in one of the vaults of the 
church. The visitor who does not see this beauti- 
ful church loses one of the principal attractions 
of Montreal. Adjoining this church is the Semi- 
nary of St. Sulpice, one of the oldest Roman 
Catholic churches in Montreal, having been 
founded in 1657. Among the beautiful Protes- 
tant churches the grandest and most imposing is 
St. James' Methodist church. The edifice and 
ground cost five hundred thousand dollars. The 
interior is extremely beautiful and has a seating 
capacity of three thousand. Christ's Church, the 
English Cathedral of Montreal, is another hand- 

18 




SACRED HEART CHAPEL 
CHURCH OF NOTRE DAME 



MONTREAi: 



some church of which the Protestant population 
may well feel proud. It is surmounted by a fine 
tower two hundred and twenty-f our feet high and 
presents a most beautiful appearance. The Mc- 
Gill University, a famous Protestant college, 
with its well-kept and extensive grounds, is a 
handsome adornment in its architectural beauty. 
On a broad area of elevated ground stands the 
main college building at the head of the avenue. 
Beautiful trees and avenues bordered with 
bright-hued flowers intensify its beauty, making 
it unusually attractive. Behind rises glorious 
and beautiful Mount Royal, a most appropriate 
background for this magnificent university. 

Amusements vary somewhat according to the 
country and the character of its people. So in 
Montreal, pastimes peculiar to Canada are en- 
ijoyed. Lacrosse, a game of Indian origin and 
resembling football, though played with a netted 
bat, is the national game of Canada from May 
to October. It is played with exceptional skill 
in Montreal. Then follow hockey, the national 
winter game, ice racing, tobogganing and skat- 
ing. No other city excels Montreal in oppor- 
tunities for these favorite pastimes. Winter is 
certainly a jolly time with its varied and peculiar 
forms of amusements. A snowshoe club is an 
organization peculiar to Canada. The uniform 
consists of a bright blanket coat, with a cap fit- 
ting tightly over the head and fastened to the 
neck. In this odd dress, the whole party wear- 
ing snowshoes, glide over the snow, playing 
games in the moonlight and singing as they go, 

19 



AMONG THE BLUE LAURENTIANS 

mmKKKaammmimmii^mimmmmmnmmmma ^ i mmnmimmt iM ui i iimwmiit .iim aB^Bmmmmmmimmm 

thoroughly enjoying themselves. In toboggan- 
ing, a thin piece of board from four to eight feet 
long and usually about eighteen inches wide and 
curved up at the front end, is the toboggan. 
The bottom of the board is very smooth and 
when started down the hill it goes bounding 
over the smooth snow with the speed of an auto- 
mobile. The one who steers the toboggan is 
seated in the rear and directs its course with 
his hands and feet. If he blunders, which 
sometimes does happen, over he goes with the 
others of the party, upside down in the snow. 
"The spill" from the toboggan adds much to the 
merriment. A pretty custom is the annual 
winter carnival. An "Ice Palace" is built of 
blocks of ice. The whole palace is illuminated 
with hundreds of electric lights. The different 
snowshoe clubs of Montreal, as well as the 
militia, "storm the Palace," which consists of a 
march to the Palace, where a most brilliant pyro- 
technical display takes place. This magnificent 
spectacle is witnessed by thousands of people. 
The Palace of 1909-10, which was erected on 
Mount Royal, was enjoyed by one hundred 
thousand people, it is estimated, many of whom 
came hundreds of miles to witness the charming 
scene. 

Aside from these strictly Canadian sports, 
football, golf, cricket, polo, yachting and canoe- 
ing are all thoroughly enjoyed by the lover of 
outdoor sports. Unusual attractions are also 
offered the angler-sportsman. Here he will 
find unlimited possibilities for the rod and line 

20 



MONTREAL 



in both lake and river. Here there is no neces- 
sity for the funny, finny fib, for certain is he to 
capture some of the fish contingent; for here is 
a boundless supply of the finny tribe from the 
tiny brook trout to the great salmon which 
sometimes weighs as much as forty pounds. The 
mountain rivers, inland seas, lakes and streams 
teem with fish; and the knight of the rod and 
line, testing his skill, finds delight in capturing 
the wealth of the waters. Here, too, the hunts- 
man may gladden his heart with the game of 
mountain and forest. In the vast wilderness, 
primeval and beautiful — ever the haunt of the 
hunter — reigns he supremely; for here in the 
fastnesses of the mountain the rifle strikes low 
some untamed beasts, a caribou or a moose, per- 
haps, at the feet of the now happy huntsman. 

We must ever appreciate and admire the 
varied beauties of the boundless forest, with its 
undulating hills, green in summer, gorgeous in 
autumn and snowclad in winter; the wooded 
islands, inland seas, wildly fascinating rapid 
streams, the lonely, peaceful lake, ever beautiful 
in its placid loveliness. The historical associa- 
tion of Lower Canada and its ancient character 
shall ever continue to captivate the student and 
the antiquarian and its natural beauties shall 
ever remain an inspiration and an attraction to 
him who admires nature and nature's works. 



21 



AMONG THE BLUE LAURENTIANS 

Among other places of interest in Montreal 
are: 

The Art Gallery, 
Bonsecours Market. 
Chateau de Ramezay. 
New Windsor Hotel. 
Royal Victoria Hospital. 
The Old Windmill. 
Victoria Square. 
Dominion Square. 
Montreal Hunt Club. 
Montreal College. 
Presbyterian College. 
The Old Towers. 
Sherbrook Street. 
The Colonial House. 
The Park Drive. 



22 



QUEBEC 



QUEBEC. 

Overlooking the noble and beautiful St. Law- 
rence, the quaint and charming city of Quebec 
stands. A large army of tourists annually in- 
vade her dominion, and ever willing is she to 
welcome this friendly invasion and proud she 
is to surrender without reservation to the ad- 
vancing line, whose embassy is ever of peace. 
The sole object of this encroachment is to view 
the ancient capital with its famous citadel, ruins 
of her feudalism, and the infinite variety of 
her charms. We, who view this fascinating city, 
feel the charm of its picturesque environments. 
We never quite forget Quebec; for fancy loves 
to linger on the quaint and beautiful afforded 
by this curious and historic city. The famous 
citadel, the battlefield and its monuments to 
the brave soldiers who fell, vividly remind us 
of the memorable siege of Quebec and fancy pic- 
tures for us the fortified city with ramparts and 
battlements and frowning cannon. We see the 
questioning sentry, note his vigilant eye, hear 
the command to the advancing line, "Halt! and 
give the countersign!" Again, we see the brave 
Wolfe anchor his fleet in the harbor, cannonad- 
ing the city for months; see him take his army 
a few miles up the St. Lawrence river, to feign 
the abandoning of the struggle; then, in the 

25 



AMONG THE BLUE LAURENTIANS 

silence of night quietly come down the river, 
clamber up the winding, precipitous cliff, dis- 
closed to his eagle eye in his careful reconnais- 
sance of the citadel. This circuitous route is a 
path to victory. It leads to the fortified city of 
Quebec, now secure to the French through the 
vigilance of the gallant Montcalm. Wolfe's 
wonderful tactics have served him well; for lol 
at dawn he stands in battle array on the Plains 
of Abraham. He has surprised Montcalm. 
Then begins that far-famed and bloody conflict. 
Wolfe storms the citadel. Montcalm and his 
French army bravely defend it. The persistent 
Wolfe is unyielding. Alas, for Montcalm! 
Alas! for Wolfe! Both see they have met in 
mortal combat. Wolfe, twice wounded, presses 
on, still leading the charge. A third ball strikes 
him, and Wolfe, the victor, dies at the moment 
of victory. At the same time mortally wounded, 
Montcalm is borne to the rear. All this, fancy 
vividly portrays, and down the long century and 
more of years the dying words of Wolfe and 
Montcalm are wafted to the ear as we, wrapt in 
thought, are overpowered with admiration for 
the conquered and the conqueror. The pictured 
battle is over. Quebec surrenders. The present 
claims us from the past and we move on to view 
the Wolfe and Montcalm monument, a magnifi- 
cent granite shaft erected to the memory of these 
brave generals. It is sixty-five feet in height 
and stands in Governor's Garden, having been 
erected in 1828. A suitable inscription is in- 
scribed thereon. The name "Wolfe" is carved 

26 



QUEBEC 



on one side. On the reverse side is inscribed 
"Montcalm/' The noble generosity of these 
people is here shown by this magnanimous, un- 
selfish act, honoring alike the victorious Wolfe 
and the vanquished Montcalm. 

DufFerin Terrace, the grand and world-re- 
nowned promenade, runs along the brow of the 
steep cliff upon which the ancient walled city 
of Quebec stands overlooking Lower Town. It 
is always the great centre of attraction in the 
evening for the immense throng of people who 
annually visit this quaint old city. A spirit of 
excitement pervades the air. This noisy activity 
is but the jolly jostle of the crowd; for every 
one is enthusiastic with the wonders of glorious 
Quebec. At night the lofty terrace presents a 
beautiful appearance and is admired with un- 
limited admiration. It is simply wonderful, this 
magnificent panorama. The city — Upper Town 
and Lower Town — and Levis, over the way, illu- 
mined by myriad electric lights and the moon 
casting its reflection on the restless, rolling river, 
make the silvery St. Lawrence sparkle with daz- 
zling brightness. All this combined with the 
inspiring music of the band from the Citadel, 
the joyous bustle and social merriment which 
seem to prevail, make this scene of gayety a 
matchless one. At the entrance to the Terrace, 
the statue of Champlain, the founder of Quebec, 
with hat in hand, welcomes the visitor. Not far 
from this memorial monument, on the hillside 
near the Post Office lies buried the illustrious 
founder of Quebec and discoverer of the beau- 

27 



AMONG THE BLUE LAURENTIANS 

tiful Lake Champlain. On September 19, 1889, 
occurred the great landslide. A huge rock 
mass which became detached from the steep 
walls of Dufferin Terrace, came thundering 
down amid clouds of dust and a deafening roar, 
burying beneath thousands of tons of rock, 
many houses and their occupants. Sixty-six 
lives were lost. Much of the debris still remains, 
and looking up the terrace you can plainly see 
where the great slice of rock was detached. An 
elevator at one end of the terrace leads to Lower 
Town landing the visitor in Little Champlain 
Street — a very narrow street. Old houses with 
high roofs are on either side. Little Sous-le- 
Cap, still more quaint, is reached through Sault- 
au-Matelot Street from Mountain Hill. The 
same high French roofed houses with peaked 
windows, which characterized Little Champlain, 
are here, too. Sous-le-Cap, about ten or twelve 
feet in width, is the narrowest thoroughfare in 
America, and one of the oldest in Lower Town. 
So narrow is it that in some places the wheels 
of the passing vehicle come in contact with the 
doorsteps of the houses. It is simply impossible 
for two carriages to pass at any point along the 
street. The houses on the cliff side connect with 
those on the opposite by foot-bridges at each 
story. On these bridges the family wash is hung. 
The whole experience is like passing through a 
tunnel except for the evidence of life presented. 
Here and there a prop reaching across the way 
serves seemingly to support the houses. The 
threatening, rugged cliff projecting itself at in- 

2S 



QUEBEC 

tervals, almost bars the way and makes the timid 
anxious to emerge from these unusual surround- 
ings into the daylight. 

Champlain Market in Lower Town gives the 
tourist an exceptional opportunity to see market- 
ing a la Franfaise, The ensemble of the scene 
is strictly French. The native simplicity, quaint 
customs and manners of the people are distinctly 
those of French Canada. All manner of con- 
veyance is here; from the jaunty caleche, sl two- 
wheeled vehicle peculiar to Quebec, down to the 
primitive ox-cart. This original mode of con- 
veyance is still employed by some of the habi- 
tants^ as the French-Canadian farmers are 
called. Most of the produce, however, is con- 
veyed from the neighboring districts up or down 
the St. Lawrence, by the market steamers. The 
market building is of stone and the open space 
outside is plank covered. The grotesque ap- 
pearance of the habitants, sitting about on this 
planked space with their green commodities 
spread out around them is picturesquely odd and 
amusing. Here is ample scope for the linguist 
to study the pleasing patois of the natives in the 
vehement clamorings and gesticulations of the 
habitants in their anxiety to dispose of their 
goods. The caleche, an airy thing with a folded 
cover, reminds one of a carriage on stilts. It is 
rather a hard vehicle to mount and equally as 
difficult from which to descend. Yet a ride in 
one of these peculiar carriages is much sought 
by the visitor on account of its novelty. 

Quebec was originally a walled city, and en- 
29 



AMONG THE BLUE L AUREyTIANS 

trance to it was effected through one of six 
gates — The Kent, St. Louis, Hope, Prescott, 
Palace and St. John leading into it. None of 
the original gates remain to-day. Those on 
Palace Hill, Hope and JNIountain Hills have 
been remodeled. St. Louis and Kent gates have 
been made very picturesque and attractive. A 
labyrinthine road leads to the Citadel, which is 
always one of the first and important objects of 
interest. It has an area of forty acres. The 
plan of the Citadel is one approved by the Duke 
of Wellington. It is three hundred and sixty- 
five feet above the river and the cost of its con- 
struction was twenty-five million dollars. H 
may be entered through St. Louis gate ann :on- 
tinuing up a hill, passing various plac ^ of in- 
terest and beauty, the massive Chain Gate is 
reached. An inner gate, closely guarded by a 
sentinel, is next reached, where all visitors are 
halted and placed in charge of a grey-uniformed 
guide, who leads the way, calling attention to 
the many historical points of interest. He tells 
the weight of the different guns, the nature of 
the different buildings — the Governor General's 
quarters, the officers' quarters, soldiers' quarters, 
storehouses and Drill Hall. Finally he leads 
the way to the King's Bastion, the highest part 
of the Citadel, where two salutes, one at noon 
and the other at half -past nine o'clock at night, 
are given daily. He points with pride to a gun 
which is claimed to have been captured from the 
Americans at Bunker Hill. The outlook from 
the Citadel is exceptionally beautiful, rivaling 

30 



QUEBEC 



the view obtained from the Kent House, Mont- 
morency. Here we see the valley of the St. 
Charles River stretching far and wide, the blue, 
round-topped mountains looking down with a 
smile upon the charm and grandeur of the beau- 
tiful St. Lawrence and the magnificent harbor 
of Quebec and Point Levis, and nearer still, 
the tightly packed houses of the town itself; a 
distant view of the village of Beauport leading 
to Montmorency Falls. The spires of the world- 
renowned church of Ste. Anne de Beaupre, 
twenty-one miles distant, are plainly discerned 
by means of a field glass. A walk along the 
ramparts will extend this magnificent view far 
away to the Maine boundary, and will also al- 
low one to observe how close upon the street 
are all the houses built, their double doors for 
protection, and how the east side of the houses 
are clapboarded for double protection during the 
severely cold winters for which Canada is noted. 
It is a fatiguing journey, this ramble up and 
down hill. Sometimes a clamber over cannon, 
ditches and walls, where the formidable guns of 
long ago are now sleeping peacefully after the 
din of battle. Among the finest and important 
buildings in Canada may be reckoned the Par- 
liament Buildings in Quebec, which were com- 
pleted in 1887. The main building is a perfect 
square of three hundred feet. The interior is 
fine and elaborate. Quebec citizens point with 
a pardonable pride to their City Hall, a mas- 
sive collection of buildings, modern in structure 
and erected upon the site of the old Jesuit Col- 

31 



AMONG THE BLUE LAURENTIANS 

lege. They proudly boast of having within their 
province the only civic structure in America, in 
which there was no "boodling" with the contract 
price. On the Plains of Abraham is erected a 
monument with the inscription — 

Here Died Wolfe Victorious 
Sept. 13th, 1759. 

Looking over the edge of the cliff can be seen 
the ravine up which Wolfe and his men clam- 
bered to capture Quebec. One of the interest- 
ing places which the visitor must not fail to view 
is the large fur store of Holt, Renfrew & Co., 
Ltd. Many quaint stories of the customs of the 
Indian are told by the employes, for they deal 
directly with the primitive people in purchasing 
their goods. The magnificent display of the 
beautiful creations in fur is greatly admired; 
and in magnificence and variety can scarcely be 
surpassed by famous Paris. The capital of this 
wonderful firm is one million dollars. Canada 
may feel reasonably proud of this enterprising 
company. Queen Victoria was pleased to pur- 
chase her furs here. The sleigh robes presented 
by the ladies of Canada to the Duchess of York 
as a wedding gift, were purchased from this 
firm. A framed document in their possession 
testifies that "Holt, Renfrew & Co., Ltd., are 
'bona fide' furriers to the Queen." Upon Duf- 
ferin Terrace, just below the Citadel, is located 
Chateau Frontenac, the grandest hotel in all 
Canada, and one of the largest and finest in the 

32 



QUEBEC 



continent of America. It is operated by the 
Canadian Pacific Railroad, having been built 
by this company at a cost of more than one mil- 
lion dollars. It is a grand site for a hotel and 
commands a fine view up and down the river and 
across the river to Levis. It is of historic in- 
terest, as it has been the residence of several of 
the governors of Canada. In the eastern wall 
of the post-office is inserted a has relief repre- 
senting a dog gnawing a bone. The significance 
of this, as well as the tragedy which occurred at 
"The Chateau Bigot," now a picturesque and 
romantic ruin, and which resulted in the death 
of the unfortunate Algonquin maid Caroline, is 
vividly described in Kirby's famous historical 
romance — "The Golden Dog" (Le Chien D'or), 
The Lorette Falls in the pretty little Indian 
village of Jeune Lorette are worthy of note. 
They are a miniature counterpart of Victoria 
Falls of the Zambesi. The entire amount of 
water of the river St. Charles after reaching the 
bottom of the Falls turns off, almost at a right 
angle, through an extremely narrow cleft in the 
rock, so narrow it could almost be stepped 
across. In this village dwells the last remnant 
of the Hurons, who took refuge from the relent- 
less Iroquois. George III. presented them with 
a small cannon, of which they feel very proud. 
They have intermarried with their French neigh- 
bors. However, the Indian features, high cheek- 
bones, swarthy look and habits still predom- 
inate. Famous churches and convents, too, 
adorn the town, reminding us forcibly of the 

33 



AMONG THE BLUE LAURENTIANS 

pioneer missionaries, suffering and sacrificing so 
much for the propagation of rehgion and civili- 
zation. The Basilica, or French Cathedral, is 
the oldest church in Canada. Its construction 
was begun in 1647. First Mass was celebrated 
in 1665 and the church dedicated in 1666 by 
Monseigneur Laval, first Bishop of Quebec. It 
has a seating capacity of four thousand. This 
historic and beautiful edifice is fashioned after 
some of the temples of France and Spain. Its 
chancel is a reproduction of St. Peter's of Rome. 
Its white and gold brocade decorations give it a 
cheerful and wondrously beautiful appearance. 
During the British bombardment in 1759 it was 
destroyed, but was afterwards rebuilt on the 
same walls. It was raised to the rank of Basilica 
in 1874 by His Holiness Pope Pius the Ninth. 
It has a wealth of magnificent paintings deco- 
rating the walls. Many of them are by the 
world's great masters. The following is the list 
of paintings and other interesting and valuable 
information as obtained from the church author- 
ities at this renowned church, as well as at the 
old monastery. 



LIST OF PAINTINGS IN THE 

FRENCH CATHEDRAL OF 

QUEBEC. 

This church is the oldest in Canada (A. D. 
1647). Destroyed by fire during the siege of 
Quebec (A. D., 1759), it was rebuilt on the 

34 



QUEBEC 



same walls. Later (on the 28th of August, 
1874) His Holiness the Pope Pius the Ninth 
raised it to the eminent dignity of Minor 
Basilica. 

I. On the right hand, first pillar, The Holy 
Family, by Blanchard. 

II. Our Saviour Insulted hy the Soldiers, by 
Huret. 

III. Birth of Christ, a copy of the same 
painting executed by Annibal Carrache. 

IV. In the lateral chapel, on the right, above 
the altar, The Flight of Josejjh Into Egypt, by 
Theophile Hamel; the original by Vanloo. 

V. In the choir on the right — Communion of 
St, Jerome, after Le Dominiquin. 

VI. Our Saviour Attended to by Angels Af- 
ter the Temptation in the Desert, by Restout. 

VII. Above the chief altar. The Inunaculate 
Conception — Lebrun's style. 

VIII. The left hand, St. Paid's Ecstasy, by 
Carlo Mara. 

IX. Virgin of Rosary, by Sassoferrato. 

X. In St. Anne's chapel, Miracles of Ste, 
uinne, by A. Plamondon. 

XI. Coming back to the interior, first pillar. 
Our Saviour on the Cross, by Van Dick. 

XII. The Pentecost, by Vignon. 

XIII. Annunciation, by Restout. 

XIV. In Sacred Heart's Chapel, to the right 
hand. The Agony in the Garden of Olives, by 
Huot. 

KV, To the left hand, The Apparition of 
85 



AMONG THE BLUE LAURENTIANS 

the Sacred Heart to Blessed Margaret Mary, 
by the same. 

XVI. In the chapel near the entrance, The 
Saviour's Sepulchre and Interment, copied by 
A. Plamondon, from the original by Hutin. 

XVII. The Baptism of Christ, Claude Guy 
Halle. 

In the chapel, above the altar, stands the 
statue of Our Lady of Pity. 

XVIII. In the opposite chapel — the right — 
St, Joseph's Death — copied by the Rev. Sisters 
of Good Shepherd, from the original by Pas- 
qualoni. 

XIX. The left — Vision of the St. Anthony 
of Padua — by the Rev. Sistel-s of Good Shep- 
herd, original by Murillo. 

The group in this chapel represents St. 
Joseph's Death. 

The two reliquaries which are attached to the 
walls in the sanctuary enclose the relics of forty 
martyrs in Japan; each contains twenty relics 
of each martyr. 

N. B. — The other small paintings around the 
chapels are the Fourteen Stations of Our 
Saviour's Passion. 



M 



QUEBEC 



LIST OF THE STAINED GLASS WIN- 
DOWS IN THE LATERAL CHAP- 
ELS OF THE BASILICA. 

I. The Birth of the Blessed Virgin. 

II. The Presentation of the Blessed Virgin. 

III. The Annunciation. 

IV. The Visitation. 

V. The Presentation of Jesus at the Temple. 

VI. The Finding of Our Lord amongst the 
Doctors. 

VII. Mary at the Foot of the Cross. 

VI II. Descending of the Holy Ghost upon 
the Blessed Virgin and the Apostles. 

IX. The Coronation of Mary in Heaven. 
Visitors are shown the church ornaments in 

gold brocade, etc., etc. 

The silver and gold set is composed of twenty- 
nine different pieces. It was bought in 1850 at 
Lyons in France. The complete purple set is 
of twenty-six different pieces. It was also pur- 
chased at Lyons in 1850. The black set is com- 
posed of twenty different pieces, bought at 
Lyons in 1869. The old set, bearing the shield 
of Louis XIV., is a gift of that king. It is 
more than two hundred years old, and consists 
of twenty-two different pieces. 



37 



AMONG THE BLUE LAURENTIANS 



A SOUVENIR OF THE OLD 
MONASTERY. 




Inscription: Me Donavit Ludovicus Deci- 
Mus Tertius. 

Seal of the Company of New France, other- 
wise called of "The Hundred Associates," 
founded by Cardinal Richelieu in 1627. The 
ground occupied by this Monastery and its de- 
pendencies was donated by that company in 
1639. The only impression known of the seal 
of which the above is a fac-simile is attached to 
a deed in the archives of the Monastery. The 
reproduction of both sides of this double seal 

38 



QUEBEC 



may be seen outside the chapel, together with 
the escutcheons of Mary of the Incarnation, the 
Foundress, and of Madame de la Peltrie, bene- 
factress of the institution. 

The Chapel. 

The present chapel, built in 1901, is of the 
same dimensions and occupies the same site as 
that completed in 1723, which it has replaced. 

The preservation of all the ornamentation of 
the former chapel, executed in the style of the 
period (Louis XIV), with its original antique 
gilding, recalls to mind the splendor of the old 
regime. The beautifully decorated colonnade, 
the elaborately carved pulpit, and the bas-reliefs 
of the panels on the sanctuary doors and on the 
bases of the columns are due to the chisel of a 
native artist, Noel Levasseur. 

The Paintings/ 

(Over the altar) 

I. The Adoration of the Infant Jesus by 
Shepherds. Artist unknown. 

II. Our Lord Revealing His Heart to the 
Blessed Margaret Mary, by Lebrun. 

At this same altar, on June 18, 1700, was cel- 

^ These original paintings^ which escaped the vandal- 
ism of the French Revolution, were purchased in 1822 
for the Ursulines by the Abbe Philippe Desjardins, their 
former chaplain, who had then been appointed Vicar Gen- 
eral of Paris. 

S9 



AMONG THE BLUE LAURENTIANS 

ebrated, for the first time in the New World, the 
feast of the Sacred Heart of Jesus. The words : 
Demande-moi par la Cceur de mon Fits, in- 
scribed in the circular window above the altar, 
and in the marble medallion outside the chapel, 
is the invitation of the Almighty Father to 
the Venerable Foundress of this Monastery, 
Marie Guyart del Incarnation, to appeal to Him 
through the Heart of His Son. 

(In the nave: Gospel-side.) 

III. St. Nonnus, a Bishop, Admitting to a 
Life of Penance the Converted Actress, Pelagia, 
by Prud'hon. 

IV. Thais the Penitent Pleading for Admis- 
sion into a Monastery^, by Prud'hon. 

(Above the main entrance.) 

V. Jesus at the Supper Table of Simon the 
Pharisee, by Philippe de Champaigne. 

(In the nave; Epistle-side.) 

VI. The Wise Virgins, by Pietro da Cortona. 

VII. Miraculous Draught of Fishes, by An- 
thony Dieu (?). 

VIII. Visitation of the Blessed Virgin, by 
Colin de Vermont. 

^ This painting, in which the artist has represented 
Saint Thais under the features of the famous Duchess de 
la Valliere, could not have found a more appropriate 
place than the chapel of the Old Monastery. During 
twelve years, the Ursulines of Quebec prayed and did pen- 
ance for the conversion of that Magdalen, who expijated 
her sinful life at court by seventeen long years of penance 
under the austere rule of the Carmelite Order. 

40 



QUEBEC 



IX. Christian Captives at Algiers Ransomed 
by the Trinitarian Fathers^ by Claude-Gui 
Halle. 

HISTORICAL MONUMENTS. 

I. Erected by the Provincial Government to 
the memory of the Jesuit Fathers Duperron, a 
missionary among the Hurons, and DeQuen, 
who discovered Lake St. John, and of the lay- 
brother Liegeois, whose head was cut off by the 
Iroquois, at Sillery, near Quebec. Inscription 
by the famous Latin scholar, Father Angelini, 
S. J. 

II. To the memory of General Montcalm, 
erected in 1859, on the 100th anniversary of his 
death. Inscription by the French Academy in 
1763. 

The marble slab beneath was placed by Lord 
Aylmer, Governor of Canada, in 1833. 



4.1 




Cuirass worn by Montcalm at the battle of 
the Plains of Abraham. Mark of the bullet 
wound on the left. Preserved by his family. 



4S 



Oji. 



^^muio 







^^f&^^M:L>'^'^i^M^^^ 






/^^a/^ 



^L 




^^lSU<L^ 



Fac-simile of Montcalm's last letter signed after the 
fatal battle of the 13th September, 1759, in the house 
of his friend, Dr. Arnoux, on St. Louis Street, and pre- 
served in the archives of the Townshend family. 

43 



AMONG THE BLUE LAURENTIANS 

At the Convent of the Franciscan Nuns, 
corner of Grand Alice and Claire Fontaine, a 
most beautiful electric illumination display is 
witnessed when the whole chapel is illuminated, 
as an act of courtesy to the visitor who greatly 
appreciates this kind welcoming of the good 
nuns. The Ursuline Convent, an imposing pile 
of buildings both ancient and modern, contains 
valuable and beautiful paintings, rare relics, in- 
cluding the skull of Montcalm, whose body lies 
buried under the chapel. The Order is a clois- 
tered one founded in 1641 by Madame de la 
Peltrie. The Church of Notre Dame des Vic- 
tories — the Lower Town Chapel — is another of 
the ancient and much-admired edifices in the 
city. It was erected in 1688. Its interior is in- 
teresting on account of its style of finish, which 
is antique in character. It contains some of the 
oldest paintings in Canada. The Anglican 
Cathedral is quite interesting in its display of 
some old battle-flags of English regiments. In 
the old Protestant burial-ground of St. John 
Street lies buried the body of Sir Walter Scott's 
brother. The adjoining edifice is St. Matthew's 
Episcopal Church, a handsome structure 
quaintly designed and Gothic in architecture. 
Its service is High Church Episcopal. 

The name Quebec is of French origin. When 
Champlain and his little crew first sighted the 
promontory upon which Quebec now stands, 
they all with one voice exclaimed ^'Quelbec! 
Quelhec!" meaning "What a beak!" thus the 
derivation and significance; for Quebec it is 

44 



QUEBEC 

^mm^mmmmmi ^mmmmmmmmii^m^iaBmmBmmamamBmmBBs amiu«Mfjsv m imu mm \wm^mmmm 

called to-day. Difficult indeed is the portrayal 
of the natural picturesqueness which one beholds 
all along the route to Canada. One of the 
richest spots in scenic beauty which America 
affords is the historic and picturesque valley of 
the St. Lawrence. Strikingly beautiful, appre- 
ciated, but never over-estimated, we see this 
noble river ever in all its pristine loveliness. 
From Quebec to Ste. Anne de Beaupre it is one 
magnificent panorama — its undulating hills, 
cultivated land and green pastures, shadowy 
forests and shining rivers. Pretty villages line 
the banks of the rivers, while ever and anon the 
spires of some parish church rise in prominence 
far above the houses and glisten with wonderful 
brightness in the sun, proclaiming to all the 
glorious devotion of Canada and her people. 
The cross sending forth a message of love, ever 
speaking to the people of the supremacy of God, 
rises heavenward far above all other objects, 
seeking as it were»to reach the abode of God and 
the blessed with a devout people's holy profes- 
sion of faith, hope and love. Concerning the 
piety of these people, it may be said, that in no 
other country is there found more deep religious 
zeal or true devotion to God than is practiced by 
these loyal-hearted Canadians. If necessary the 
habitant will mortgage his farm, of which he is 
so justly proud, in order to contribute his por- 
tion for the maintenance of a magnificent church 
— ^the dwelling-place of God — ever striving to 
show honor and glory for Him above all things. 
The Falls of Montmorency River add a par- 

4i 



AMONG THE BLUE LAURENTIANS 

ticular charm to the scene, touching it with a 
grandeur rivahng in beauty and subhmity the 
Falls of Niagara. Often has this work of nature 
imbued the poet with lofty ideas and frequently 
has it been the creative genius of the artist. It 
inspires one with a reverential fear, causing him 
to commune in holy contemplation with Him the 
Author of our being. Grand in summer, pictur- 
esque in winter and inspiring at all times we 
find the Falls of Montmorency. During the 
winter the freezing spray gradually forms a cone 
of comparative altitude. Sliding and toboggan- 
ing parties are attracted here for the sole pur- 
pose of enjoying this frolic. Considering the 
popularity of this sport and its apparent 
dangers, but few accidents have occurred. But 
in summer, the grandest character of the Falls 
is effected. Then we see this immense volume 
of water foaming and fretting, rushing madly 
on with a mighty roar. A sheer plunge over a 
precipice of solid rock, two hundred and 
seventy-six feet in height, finally mingles it with 
the waters of the river beneath. An awe-inspir- 
ing sight is this tumbling expanse of snow-white 
foam in its frantic, headlong rush, and one to be 
forever remembered with profound admiration 
and respect by the true lover of nature. The 
most skeptical who beholds it cannot but feel 
the Divine Presence and realize that we are not 
adrift on the universe — mere children of chance 
— but children of one Eternal Father. Uncon- 
sciously will he murmur in the glorious words 
of the psalmist, "Even from everlasting to ever- 

M 




MONTMORENCI FALLS 



QUEBEC 



lasting Thou art God." Like guardians, watch- 
ing the head of the cataract on either bank, the 
observer will notice two stone columns, massive 
in proportion. They have been permitted to re- 
main as mute memorials of a tragic event which 
occurred more than half a century ago. These 
pillars formerly served as piers for a suspension 
bridge which spanned the Falls at this point. 
Unfortunately the structure proved to be too 
lightly constructed and fell away from its fas- 
tenings, just as a French-Canadian farmer and 
his wife were crossing in their market cart on 
their way to the town to dispose of their produce. 
The ill-fated couple were dashed over the Falls 
and were never seen again. At a height of one 
hundred and eighty-five feet, power is developed 
from the Falls. The power house of the Quebec 
Railway Light and Power Company is erected 
here, and in addition to supplying power to their 
own railway system in the city of Quebec and its 
suburbs, light and power for private citizens are 
also obtained from this source. The Montmo- 
rency Cotton Mills and the Riverside Manufac- 
turing Company are also supplied through this 
means. The railway crosses the Montmorency 
River about two hundred yards from the Falls. 
From the top of the dam to the foot of the Falls 
is two hundred and seventy-six feet, or one 
hundred and fifty feet higher than Niagara 
Falls. At the station an elevator, a steel struc- 
ture, brings the tourist to the top. A fine view 
of the Falls with all its picturesque scenery can 
be obtained from the observation car. The trip 

47 



AMONG THE BLUE LAURENTIANS 

in the car is about one and a half minutes dura- 
tion. On reaching the top, we see Kent House, 
the one-time residence of the Duke of Kent, the 
father of the late Queen Victoria and com- 
mander-in-chief of the British forces in Canada. 
It is now a first-class hotel, and is, with the ex- 
ception of some sanitary improvements, prac- 
tically the same as when originally occupied by 
His Royal Highness, the Duke of Kent. An 
extended view, clear and uninterrupted, may 
here be obtained as far as the White Mountains ; 
the sharp, rugged peaks of which are clearly seen 
outlined against the sky. Exceedingly beauti- 
ful and impressive is the outlook from here, un- 
surpassed if equalled by another in America, 
and possibly unequalled, it is said, by any in 
Europe, save that perhaps of Naples from the 
bay and Constantinople. The historic associa- 
tion and the enchanting scene by day and at 
night, when illumined by the light of the full 
moon, make this an ideal place — an inspiration 
and charm for the student and tourist. A 
spacious park surrounds this famous old place. 
Here also have been erected and prepared 
special attractions and means of recreation for 
'the benefit of the public. The zoological gar- 
dens, which contain noble specimens of animals 
peculiar to Canada, and which are the property 
of Holt, Renfrew and Company, of Quebec, 
add a double attraction to the park and are 
thoroughly enjoyed by visitors. Here are found 
fine, noble specimens of the moose. So tame 
are these beautiful creatures that they will eat 

48 



QUEBEC 



from the visitor's hand, much to the dehght of 
the children. It was on these grounds on the 
east side of the river, that General Wolfe's in- 
vading army encamped during the memorable 
siege of Quebec in 1759, while on the west 
side of the river, Montcalm and his French 
army had their encampment. The remains of 
some of the intrenchments are still clearly de- 
fined. Various relics of that renowned siege 
may also be viewed, making it doubly in- 
teresting to the lover of history. To the 
right of the Montmorency River we see the 
harbor and city of Quebec, Levis, St. Joseph 
and the Isle of Orleans. On the other side are 
La Canadiere, Chateau Richer, and farther on 
peerless and beautiful Ste. Anne de Beaupre. In 
Quebec we see little else but French — French 
people, French customs and French ways — in 
fact, everything is French, Here are books and 
newspapers in French, towns, villages, rivers, 
buildings and streets bearing French names or 
names of some special saints. Indeed, if it were 
not for the English flag. Union Jack, which here 
and there waves in the breeze, one might think 
he were traveling in old France, so distinctively 
French is everything. England has found it a 
very difficult task to Anglicize Quebec; for with 
a characteristic loyalty these people lovingly 
cling to their mother country and her ways and 
will not be separated from her. 

You may break, you may shatter, the vase if you wiU^ 
But the scent of the roses will cling to it still," 

4Q 



AMONG THE BLUE LAURENTIANS 

O Quebec! Beautiful and quaint! These are a 
few of thy charms; but thy true charm and 
grandeur consist not in thy strongly forti- 
fied battlements, magnificent architecture, or 
picturesque environments, but in the hearts of 
thy people — their delightful manners, gracious, 
kindly spirit and Christian love. Possessing the 
courtesy and chivalry of the knights of old, their 
princely hospitality would bid us linger; with a 
profound impression and love we reluctantly 
utter adieu to Quebec-the-Quaint I 

OTHER POINTS OF INTEREST IN 
AND ABOUT QUEBEC. 

Martello Towers, 
Hotel Dieu Hospital, 
Laval University, 
Morrin College, 
Cardinal's Palace, 
Chaudiere Falls, 
Montcalm House, 
Where Montgomery Fell, 
Wolfe's Cove, 
Break Neck Stairs, 
Forts of Levis, 
Isle of Orleans. 
Lakes: St. Charles, Beauport, St. Joseph. 



50 



STE. ANNE DE BEAUPRE 



STE. ANNE DE BEAUPRE. 

Yes, peerless and beautiful Ste. Anne de Beau- 
pre! So replete with natural charms and a 
people so gloriously happy in their religious 
zeal and devotion and an undying love for the 
Saviour! This lovely spot nestles close to the 
foot of the mountain which smilingly looks ap- 
proval upon the cluster of pretty homes and the 
unaffected grace and loyalty of the people. 
Clinging lovingly to the side of the mountain, 
are seen some of the more stately buildings, giv- 
ing them the appearance of having strayed away 
from the beautiful home cluster in the pretty 
little valley below, for a loving embrace, per- 
haps, and with a childlike simplicity to nestle 
still closer in the protecting arms of the blue 
Laurentians. This lovely village of Beaupre, 
so remarkable for the world-renowned shrine 
of Ste. Anne, is one of nature's most beautiful 
spots. To the north is the beautiful background 
of mountains — the Laurentian Highlands — and 
stretching away and away in the distance edg- 
ing it on the south flows ever in stately grandeur 
the majestic St. Lawrence. An unpretensive 
little pier leads out to the river. On it is ex- 
hibited the world-famous painting — The Cyclo- 
rama of the Holy Land and the Crucifixion. 
This work of art is a most wonderful produc- 

53 



AMONG THE BLUE LAURENTIANS 

tion — a masterpiece from a religious and historic 
standpoint. It was inspired by Philippoteaux 
and jointly executed at a cost of thirty thousand 
dollars by the best French and American artists. 
Intensely realistic is the representation of the 
Crucifixion. It awakens within the soul feel- 
ings of awe and reverence and inspires one with 
the elevating influence of the pure and noble, 
causing him to realize, as he contemplates the 
holy scene, his unworthiness and man's ingrati- 
tude to God for the sacred immolation of Our 
Blessed Saviour on Mount Calvary. From the 
quaint rustic pier the little village looks delight- 
fully pretty. The fertile valley, with its long 
stretch of picturesque homesteads — cute little 
reminders of quaint Normandy — its beautiful 
church edifices, crowned by the blue Lauren- 
tians, give us a pretty glimpse of Old France. 
Religiously beautiful iand impressive are the evi- 
dences of piety displayed at Ste. Anne de 
Beaupre. Fourteen white crosses representing 
the Stations of the Cross, a most touching and 
beautiful devotion of the Catholic Church, have 
been erected on the hillside. A much larger one, 
the Cross of Calvary — that precious emblem of 
man's redemption — rising prominently above the 
mass of foliage, crowns the summit of the hill. 
In the evening groups of pilgrims bearing 
lighted candles, and reciting this beautiful devo- 
tion, "The Way of the Cross," are seen wending 
their way slowly and piously, praying in turn 
before each of the fourteen crosses on the hill- 
side, finally reaching the summit, where has 

54i 



STE. ANNE DE BEAUPRE 

been erected the larger cross, "The Calvary." 
Two convents, one the Convent of the Francis- 
can Nuns, the other, the home of the Redemp- 
toristine Nuns, materially add to the religious 
beauties of Beaupre. These beautiful buildings 
framed in a pretty mass of foliage and nestling 
close to the bosom of the mountain greatly in- 
crease the fascinating charms of the place. A 
glimpse of , the sweetness and sanctity of mo- 
nastic life is seen, when absorbed in the holy 
presence of God, the nuns assemble at Solemn 
Benediction. A pure atmosphere of religion 
and love pervades the solemn stillness of the 
pretty little chapel. Separated from the visiting 
throng of worshippers, the white-robed nuns, 
wrapt in holy contemplation and kneeling in the 
attitude of prayer, chant in accents soft and 
sweet holy hymns of love to their Divine Spouse 
in the Most Blessed Sacrament. Towering 
above all the magnificent church edifices, the 
crowning glory of them all, is the famous 
Basilica of Good Saint Anne. A beautiful 
tradition concerning the introduction of the de- 
votion to St. Anne and the institution of the 
church at Beaupre, is related by the good people. 
Some Breton mariners sailing on the St. Law- 
rence encountered a most violent storm. 
Alarmed by the violence of the tempest, and 
fearful of their safety, they had recourse to 
prayer. Immediately their minds reverted to 
good St. Anne, the patroness of their beloved 
Brittany. They had been taught in their child- 
hood and early youth, the efficiency of prayer to 

6$ 



AMONG THE BLUE LAURENTIANS 

this good saint. So, placing their confidence in 
God, they immediately besought Divine assist- 
ance, at the same time beseeching the most pow- 
erful intercession of their much-beloved Ste. 
Anne, praying her to bear to Heaven their sighs 
and supplications for safety from shipwreck and 
death. Never had the good Saint been deaf to 
their pleadings; so, confidently they implored 
her to carry their petitions to the Throne of 
God. They solemnly vowed, if saved, to erect 
her a sanctuary on the spot where they should 
land. God heard their prayers. At the dawn 
of day these brave and good men reached the 
north shore of the river, at a place, seven leagues 
northeast of Quebec, then known as Petit Cap. 
True to their solemn promise they built, in 1657, 
a little wooden chapel, which has since developed 
into the far-famed and beautiful Basilica of 
Saint Anne. The present edifice, of Corinthian 
architecture, was solemnly blessed and opened 
for public worship with imposing ceremonies on 
October 17, 1876. It was consecrated by His 
Eminence Cardinal Taschereau May 16, 1889. 
It is in charge of the Redemptorist Fathers and 
has been since 1878. Twin towers one hundred 
and sixty-eight feet in height ornament the 
structure. Over each of the three entrance 
doors in the facade is a carved slab, illustrating 
the three theological virtues — Faith, Hope and 
Charity. Surmounting the whole structure is a 
colossal statue of Saint Anne, fourteen feet in 
height and carved in wood and copper gilt. The 
majestic greatness and sumptuous elegance of 

if 



STE. ANNE DE BEAUPRE 



the architecture, added to the grand and rehg- 
ious nature of its decorations profoundly impress 
one, as he gazes upon this imposing structure 
of royal magnificence. Many are the miracles 
performed at this world-renowned shrine of 
Saint Anne. At the extremity of the aisle, be- 
fore the main altar, stands the handsome Mir- 
aculous Statue, at which the pilgrims kneel 
when they implore the intercession of the glo- 
rious Saint. On the front of the pedestal is the 
reliquary containing a stone from the house in 
which the Blessed Virgin Mary, Mother of God, 
first saw the light of day. The richness and 
magnificence of the Miraculous Statue and 
pedestal are indescribable. The diadem of gold 
and precious jewels was placed there in 1887 by 
His Eminence Cardinal Taschereau in the name 
of Leo XIII. At the foot of the statue, 
crutches and other surgical appliances and many 
votive offerings, testify to the merciful effects 
experienced by those who have had recourse to 
her powerful intercession with the Eternal 
Father. The Scala Sancta (Holy Stairway) is 
a very unique, religious structure. A large 
flight of steps, an imitation of the steps our 
Saviour mounted during His Sacred Passion in 
the tribunal of Pontius Pilate, and which con- 
tain relics from the Holy Land, are ascended by 
devout worshippers kneeling in the attitude of 
prayer. During the British invasion in 1759, the 
whole country was devastated, and the only 
building left standing was the little chapel under 
the special patronage of Saint Anne. The first 

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AMONG THE BLUE LAURENTIANS 

statue of Ste. Anne in Canada was brought from 
France by Bishop Laval, the first Bishop of 
Quebec, in 1661. It and many other historical 
relics are still preserved in the Church Reli- 
quary. A visit to Ste. Anne de Beaupre is incom- 
plete without a drive to the lovely Falls of St. 
Anne. Beautiful, instructive and interesting 
will this drive be. Here in this fruitful village, 
we have a country delightfully quaint, replete 
with many beautiful charms and reflecting the 
thrift and economy of the people. The well- 
kept, neat, little houses, pretty and picturesque 
with their high peaked roofs — lovely little home 
spots — with a wealth of pretty little valleys, 
bright with the loveliest of wayside flowers, and 
again little bits of river here and there, and 
quaint pastoral scenes, evidences of this thrift 
and economy, confront us everywhere. Ex- 
tremely interesting, original and primitive are 
some of these rural scenes; all testifying to the 
economical arrangement and conservative prin- 
ciples of the Canadian farmer. Here his skill 
is shown in the luxuriance and abundance of the 
crops, the product of his labor and skill. Here 
flourish beautiful fields of buckwheat, corn and 
grain. Fields of rich clover heavily laden and 
extremely pretty in the luxuriance of purple 
blossoms, delight the eye. The weather in the 
mountain district is a tricky little elf. The 
clouds playing "hide and seek" with the sun have 
a way of deceiving "Old Probability" himself. 
Very original is the plan adopted by the thrifty 
farmer, who in the midst of his harvesting notices 

1^8 



STE. ANNE DE BEAUPRE 

the gathering of dark, frowning clouds so in- 
dicative of the sudden approach of a storm. 
Quickly the grain is gathered into heaps. Each 
heap is hooded with a weighted cap of papier 
mache or some other similar material made to 
protect it from the rain. Very unique and 
picturesque is a harvest field so decorated, and 
this busy scene of farm life — the men, women 
and children in quaint garb hurrying to and fro, 
capping the mounds — presents a pleasing pic- 
ture of industry, and amply illustrates the inven- 
tive genius and thrift of the Canadian farmer. 
Here the humble habitant rises superbly to the 
occasion, bravely faces existing circumstances, 
thanks God for the rain and calmly awaits the 
rainbow. The American soi-disant, scientific 
agriculturist, possessing not the ready power to 
cope with such a turn of luck, blames Providence 
and the weather and sits down to grieve and 
grumble. Ever and anon is caught a fleeting 
glimpse of the primitive past; for the French- 
Canadian is rather conservative; slow to accept 
the adopted models of the present. Here at the 
close of the day is seen the faithful, gentle, old 
ox, ever the servant of man, plodding wearily 
homeward, fatigued after serving his master in 
the harvest field or elsewhere. Strutting about 
with a frame of nondescript appearance en- 
circling the neck, are seen the awkward goose 
and the trim turkey, companions to a pig in pas- 
ture; all displaying the same kind of neckwear. 
Our interest is awakened to the novel sight and 
we are informed that this unique frame is used 

59 



AMONG THE BLUE LAURENTIANS 

to prevent their passage under the fence and is 
the yoke primeval, used in the primitive colonial 
days and still employed in some localities for 
this particular purpose. The road to St. 
Anne's Falls is a very hilly one, but extremely 
so is the winding way through the forest of 
stately pines, pretty white birches, and great 
oaks. But the Canadian horse is a well-trained 
animal accustomed to such things. There is no 
halt or hesitancy, no swerving in him. He seems 
to know his duty, so when a steep hill is reached, 
he simply throws back his ears, looks straight 
ahead as if to measure the distance, makes one 
plunge and is off. With no resemblance of 
break, he bolts the hill and in a very short time 
the faithful beast is at the top and down the 
high slope on the other side. Soon is reached a 
pretty glade in the forest where the gentle 
Canadian horse may rest; for the remainder 
of the way is through a deep, unbroken forest 
of beautiful white birches with only a footpath to 
mark the route to the Falls. Beautiful moss- 
covered rocks — whole family groups — ranging 
in size from the tiny pebble to the huge bowlder 
which rises like a miniature green mountain 
among its companions, arrest the attention, and 
in the silence of the forest we wonder and ad- 
mire. As we proceed, the stillness is broken by 
the sound of rushing water. The guide informs 
us it is the murmuring of the Falls a mile away. 
It is then the words of the poet burst upon us 
with all their force and beauty. 



60 



STE. ANNE DE BEAUPRE 

"This is the forest primeval. The murmuring pines and 

the hemlocks. 
Bearded with moss, and in garments green, indistinct in 

the twilight. 
Stand like Druids of eld, with voices sad and prophetic, 
Stand like harpers hoar, with beards that rest on their 

bosoms. 
Loud from its rocky caverns, the deep-voiced neighboring 

ocean 
Speaks, and in accents disconsolate answers the wail of 

the forest." 

By and by the path leads to the side of a cliff. 
Down the steep descent we cautiously descend 
until safe in the valley beneath us. Oh! How 
wondrously beautiful the sight! the St. Anne 
river with its picturesque and wonderful water- 
fall, flanked on either side by a high wooded 
bank gaily decked with masses of variegated 
wild flowers. Natural steps of rock permit 
us to approach very close to the Falls, where 
we can get a splendid view of the cave in the 
rock formed by the action of the water; and if 
we are brave enough, leaning far out over the 
edge of the rock, we can see far down the deep, 
narrow gorge so remarkable for its beauty. 
After having feasted our eyes upon the charm 
and grandeur of the wild mountain scenery, let 
us commune with mother nature, gather a few 
of her pretty wild blossoms, clamber up the cliff, 
and retrace our steps through the forest to the 
glade and resume our drive homeward to the vil- 
lage of Beaupr?. Now, perhaps, it is evening, 
and an excellent opportunity will be afforded 
to admire the kaleidoscopic view of the purplish, 

61 



AMONG THE BLUE LAURENTIANS 

blue Laurentians, the lights and shades on 
mountain and river, the reflected radiance of 
the glorious sunset colors, in the grandeur and 
glory of a setting sun. Here also nature's ir- 
regularity in the arrangement of her wild flow- 
ers, affords ample and interesting material for 
the botanist. Side by side, the daisy and butter- 
cup in clusters of white and gold, bloom and min- 
gle their beauties with the purple and gold of the 
gentian and goldenrod. A mingled mass of gor- 
geous, bright-hued flowers cover and garland the 
mountain slopes and hillsides, converting the 
valley or glen into one of nature's own flower 
gardens; and the traveler must linger and ad- 
mire the sweet radiance of the lovely wayside 
flowers. Occasionally we see in some seques- 
tered nook "the lonely thatched cottage;" but 
as a rule, the Canadian dwellings are conven- 
iently built to cuddle close together with a 
view for better protection and warmth during 
the severe winter. Each one desiring to dodge 
the biting blizzard wind which comes from the 
east, builds his house jutting a little beyond his 
neighbor's. One will also notice the unusual 
introduction of outside stairs leading from the 
second story of the house to the street. Great 
embankments of snow, completely shut in the 
occupants of the house during the severe winter, 
and on inquiry, it is learned that this ingenious 
contrivance is the means by which the household 
circumvents the great white barricade of the 
elements and gains access to the street. A foot- 
bridge leading from the second story of the 

C2 



STE. ANNE DE BEAUPRE 

house to the haymow of the barn adjoining, 
gives the farmer access to the barn when the 
heavy snows render it impossible to reach it by 
the ordinary footpath. The Canadian dog har- 
nessed to a Httle, hght wagon is taught to draw 
his master. In this mode of conveyance the milk 
supply is served to the villagers every morning 
and evening. This prevailing popular custom 
is regarded with much wonder and surprise by 
the tourist, who admires the sagacity and cute 
appearance of the little animals in their neat 
little rig. The farms are long and narrow. Not 
a bit of God's land is wasted. Every foot of 
ground is utilized and made to supply the wants 
of man. Little patches seemingly of no value, 
patches which the American would not consider 
worth while to cultivate, have been drained and 
rendered fit for agricultural purposes. Cul- 
tivation extends down the slopes of the hillside. 
Under the skillful hand of the farmer the field 
ravine is converted into a fertile glen to bud and 
bloom in a state of cultivation. Unbroken by 
fences, the alternating colors of the ripening 
grain and clover, the varying shades of long 
strips of growing vegetation, with here and there 
fields of grain in the different stages of har- 
vesting, the cultivated hillsides and glens, all 
blend in a delightful harmony. 

Here we find no caste. Each one has an un- 
bounded love and confidence in his neighbor. 
Thus they live as one large family, sharing their 
mutual joys and sorrows. To them, very fit- 
ingly, the words of the poet apply: 

&3 



AMONG THE BLUE LAURENTIANS 

''Neither lock had they to their doors. Nor bars to their 

windows ; 
But their dwellings were open as day and the hearts of 

the owners, 
There the richest was poor, and the poorest lived in 

abundance." 

An intensity of love for God and holy things, 
so characteristic of the people, pervades the at- 
mosphere of Ste. Anne de Beaupre. As we gaze 
upon the peaceful serenity and religious beau- 
ties of the sacred village, we feel that we are in- 
deed upon hallowed ground — a place especially 
blessed with Divine love. The people, posses- 
sing an unselfish devotion, one for the other, 
labor in the spirit of brotherly love and, fretting 
not for earthly joys, strive to live in the perpet- 
ual love of God; and He, rejoicing in their 
fervor and faith, strengthens them in their love 
and speaks to their hearts of the Kingdom of 
the Resurrection wherein are joys eternal. 



THE END. 



64 



FEB 7 1913 



